New Designers is an annual exhibition that brings together the best graduate design talent from across the UK. New Designers seeks to inspire the next generation of designers. Over two weeks, the work of over 3,000 talented graduates in a range of disciplines, including textiles,graphics, product design, and more is showcased and celebrated.

For the first time, Chorus Arts sponsored their own award, the award for craft and material exploration.

The panel focused on exploring designers who have worked to develop and hone their craft. They looked for those individuals pushing the boundaries of their practice and presenting innovative materials in unexpected ways.

The winner of this award was Isla Paine.

Isla’s work aims to explore design practices that question the inherent ideas of craft. Pushing the boundaries of what is meant by jewellery and exploring the materiality of wearables. Looking to the body and movement, and considering how the body and jewellery can become one art piece and utilise the natural forms found in the body to create pieces that enhance the wearer marrying the object to the body. 

Emma Stones (ES) caught up with Isla (IP) to discuss her practice in more detail, her presented work at New Designers, inspirations and future practice.

ES How would you describe your artistic practice and process?

IP I enjoy working to the material I am using, enhancing their natural artistic qualities. Making works that are guided by the material, I am not confined to a practice, and I enjoy exploring different methods of making often experimenting with new process and techniques. Through my work I want I express my love for discovery, always looking to push my boundaries of how to make. Always seeking to expand my knowledge, skill set, and style. 

ES Can you talk specifically about your submitted work at New Designers? – your inspiration, your collaboration.

IP “Material Sound” seeks to transform sound to a material art form, allowing the vibrations to be the artist behind the piece while the form of the work is inspired through movement and dance. Growing up I was surrounded by music, which has always been a source of comfort for me, and my brother started ballet at a young age and is now a professional dancer. Being immersed in both dance and music I wanted to create a piece that was able to capture the essence of music, coming alive through the act of wearing. Using Chladni plates, one of the earliest methods of visualising sound, I was able to embed sound wave patterns into each piece. Collaborating with my brother and a friend we were able to produce a piece of music and dance to create a video showcasing the context of this project. 

ES Could you talk about the process of metal work that you utilised for ‘Material Sound’?

IP To create the final piece for Material Sound I utilised the engineering workshops to water-jet cut each piece individually. After creating several models using laser cut mount board I landed on a shape that carried a line through the piece while being soft and organic. Using jewellery wax I then used each piece as a chladni plate. Melting the jewellery wax onto the metal and protecting the back I then etched the pattern into the steel. This allowed for the rust to adhere to the plates much better with a deeper, richer colour. I then removed the wax after the plates patinated enough. Using renaissance wax I sealed each piece to ensure they do not rust any further and there remains a stark contrast is rust and clean metal of the soundwaves. 

ES What forms does collaboration take in your work?

IP Collaboration is central to my love for the creative industry, it allows me to explore new perspectives and gain different insights into different artistic practices. Through my current project collaborating with my brother and music producer, I was able to push my own understanding of Material Sound to new perspectives. Allowing both to create pieces within their own practice responding to themes of work, challenging how my work can be approached. Through collaborating I always learn new ways of thinking and working, always looking to expand my practice and ways of working. 

ES Craft is at the heart of your work, can you talk to me about your relationship with craft?

IP My relationship to craft is a new one, that I’m excited to grow and develop further. I have always loved producing hands on work, working on projects that move beyond my sketchbook. Objects can hold so much significance in people’s lives and have the ability to tell stories. I hope to continue to make work that strives to fulfil the same and is hopefully able to resonate with people on the same level. 

ES Where do you get inspiration from for your practice as a whole?

IP Music is currently where I take inspiration from. Music can make me feel anything and put me in any and every mood. Particularly having studied in Manchester where there is such a rich music scene, seeing its prevalence in society highlights it’s limitless ability to touch people. And of course my brother has always been an inspiration to me, always working to his passions of ballet and dance to create his own place in the world for his craft. I hope to do be able to do the same within my artistic work. 

There are a number of artists that have inspired me over my time at Manchester and the development of my practice. John Moore has been a huge inspiration for my work within jewellery. With a similar theme and outlook he is able to capture dance and movement into his jewellery effortlessly, his use of colour and vibrancy is striking and unique. His work expresses such an individual essence, capturing his love for dance wholeheartedly. I am also inspired by painter Daisei Terazono and his work in portraiture. Tarazono’ approach to people centred work conveys so much emotion and intrigue. He is able to create paintings that are both uncomfortable and abundantly beautiful. 

ES What projects are you currently working on?

IP Currently I am exploring how movement and the body play a role in jewellery and how this can be used to create sculptural pieces. Wanting to experiment and collaborate with dancers I am working to create pieces that mimic the lines and forms found within the body through dance. Creating wearable sculptures that extend the body. 

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